Delphine Manivet
Fall Haute Couture 2014
Paris Fashion Week
Review by Catherina Minthe
"Introducing Delphine Manivet: a French designer who has notably designed bridal wear for the past ten years (dressing the likes of Lily Allen) and who is now making her first foray into the world of couture with this presentation at her atelier near the Place de la Madeleine. And while her bridal collections might endorse the boho bride and thus lack the regality of our regional designers’ offerings, her demure and feminine red carpet gowns and this first Couture collection will certainly catch the eye of the savvy and internationally traveled Middle Eastern woman."
"Inspired by Pierre Soulages, a painter, engraver, and sculptor who is transfixed by the transformative nature of the shade of black, Manivet opened her presentation with a black dress featuring a molded corset and long panels of silk tulle that fell from a voluminous waist. Its construction and silhouette made for a dramatic start to a show in which each dress opened a unique dialogue on the maestria of construction. The next dress, also black, featured a modest mock turtleneck and long sleeves with its sole embellishment being a strip of white mink at the wrist. Its A-line flared skirt was made with crepe and when the model turned, she revealed a diamond-cut hole at her lower back."
"The shades of black were then ruptured with the emergence of hand-embroidered flowers in mauve, blue, pink, and white, that fell from a boatneck collar down the length of a transparent mousseline dress, which was handmade using a lace machine from the 19th century."
"Volume was again at the forefront in a jacquard print, midnight blue and ivory evening walk coat with batwing sleeves, and a shawl collar fox. The show’s momentum continued its ascent with a long, fitted, fire red velvet dress with train featuring long corded sleeves and embroidered cuffs, apt for a modern-day lovelorn Anna Karenina. Manivet’s muse is on a quixotic intellectual journey, buoyed by fantasies of Tolstoy and Dostoyevsky. This is one voyage we’re keen to follow."
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